What is Parfum de Toilette?

Among perfume terms that frequently confuse collectors and fragrance enthusiasts, Parfum de Toilette is perhaps one of the most misunderstood. Modern consumers are generally familiar with labels such as Eau de Parfum or Eau de Toilette, but vintage perfume bottles often feature terms that have largely disappeared from modern fragrance marketing. To understand Parfum de Toilette, it helps to begin with the hierarchy of perfume concentrations and the historical language that perfume houses once used.

At the highest level sits Parfum, also known as Extrait, Extrait de Parfum, Parfum Classique (Classic Perfume), or simply Extract. This represents the richest and most concentrated form of fragrance. Modern parfums generally contain approximately 20–30 percent perfume oils suspended in high-grade alcohol with a small amount of water. Vintage examples, however, were often considerably stronger and could contain approximately 22–40 percent aromatic materials. Whether composed of natural materials, synthetic ingredients, or a combination of both, parfum offers the longest wear, often lasting seven to twenty-four hours on the skin. Because of the concentration of costly ingredients, it has traditionally represented the most luxurious and expensive perfume format. Any concentration containing less perfume oil generally falls into the category of an eau.

Eau de Parfum:

Immediately below parfum comes Eau de Parfum, a category known historically by several different names. These included Esprit de Parfum (Spirit of Perfume), Secret de Parfum (Secret of Perfume), Millesime, and Parfum de Toilette (Perfume for the Dressing Table or more naturally Toilet Perfume). Typically these concentrations contain approximately 10–15 percent perfume oils with a somewhat lighter alcohol and water base. Vintage versions were often stronger, frequently ranging between 15–20 percent oils and in some cases approaching the strength of true parfum. Wear time generally ranges from four to eight hours.

The term Parfum de Toilette itself appears to have become especially popular beginning around 1960. It was adopted by houses such as Coty and later used by many others including Revillon, Caron, Nina Ricci, Rochas, Salvador Dalí, Le Galion, Jean Desprez, Weil, Houbigant, Worth, Craven, and Dolce & Gabbana. The term remained in regular use from approximately 1960 through the end of the twentieth century. By the late 1980s and early 1990s, its use had already begun to decline as perfume houses gradually standardized terminology around the now-familiar Eau de Parfum.

Different perfume houses often preferred their own proprietary terminology for what was essentially the same concentration category. Christian Dior used Esprit de Parfum for fragrances such as Poison, Dune, Miss Dior, Dioressence, and Diorissimo, while Secret de Parfum appeared for certain versions of Opium. Oscar de la Renta used Esprit de Parfum for his signature fragrance Oscar. Orlane had a Secret de Parfum for their scent Fleurs d'Orlane, as did Guerlain as a limited edition for Shalimar. 

One of the few historical concentration terms that continues to survive today is Millesime, still employed by Creed. The word millesime literally means "vintage year" or "best harvest year," borrowed from the language of wine. Creed uses the term to indicate fragrances created from what it describes as the finest available crops of flowers, fruits, and spices, emphasizing both material quality and craftsmanship.

Eau de Toilette:

Below Eau de Parfum comes Eau de Toilette (Toilet Water), a lighter dilution generally containing approximately 4–10 percent perfume oils in a weaker alcohol solution. Vintage Eau de Toilettes were often somewhat stronger than their modern equivalents and could contain 5–15 percent oils. Wear time typically averages around three hours. These fragrances were intended to be reapplied throughout the day and suited daytime wear, warmer climates, and casual use.

Eau de Cologne:

Further down the scale is Eau de Cologne, traditionally containing approximately 3–5 percent perfume oils. Used by both men and women and often appearing in aftershaves, colognes were designed for generous application rather than longevity. Their refreshing citrus and herbal structures made them particularly useful after bathing or during hot weather.

Eau Fraiche:

At the lightest end of traditional fragrance concentration sits Eau Fraîche (Fresh Water), usually containing approximately 1–3 percent perfume oils with a higher proportion of water and alcohol. Lasting less than an hour in many cases, these products were intended to provide a brief sensation of freshness and could be applied repeatedly throughout the day.

There are also several lighter fragrance variations that rely primarily on water rather than alcohol. Voile de Parfum (Perfume Veil), Eau Parfumée (Perfumed Water), Voile d'Été (Summer Veil), Eau Sans Alcool (Alcohol-Free Water), Brume de Parfum (Perfume Mist), and similar terms generally describe lighter, often alcohol-free formulations containing approximately 3–8 percent perfume oils. Such products were designed especially for warm climates, beach wear, or situations where a lighter and more refreshing fragrance experience was desired.